JIL SANDER EXPLORES THE FUTURE OF CLOTHING IN FALL COLLECTION
Luxury fashion label Jil Sander presented its new fall/winter 2018 collection at a special presentation in Paris on Thursday night, January 18. For this season, the collection looks towards the future, with clothing that displays a strong modern feel.
The silhouettes are modern with a familiarity that at times is slightly twisted or has shrunken proportions. Layering creates asymmetrical forms giving depth and a thermal functioning to essential pieces. Generous outerwear shapes are refined and controlled; down coats are soft and have a duvet feel wrapping the body in forms inspired by military camp sleeping bags; padded coats and shirts add lightness to volume; technical welding and bonding have been utilized on natural fabrics and leathers.
A warm, human touch has been given to the clothes and a rawness and slight imperfection is present through raw edge cutting and washed shrunken wool details. Hardware is kept to a minimum, looking to pre-technical sportswear as inspiration. Cotton cording, natural horn buttons with lacquered finishing, and brushed aluminum buttons are used throughout.
The collection, while forward-looking in inspiration, is created for the present. The lining construction on tailored pieces both supports the garment and gives the wearer an ease of movement created by horizontal cuts. Contrast stitching emphasizes this construction. Movement is also enhanced through cut out forms at the elbows and armholes on outerwear and shirts.
The color palette features soft, warm whites and natural cotton hues set against astral tones of green, grey, and beige. The colors seem to borrow elements from each other creating rich and balanced variations of different hues. Also present are black and the identifiably dark navy of Jil Sander.
Footwear and accessories take cues from the collection inspiration to complete the range. Bags are softened with padding or as a result of specific leather selections; oversized functional forms are inflated to round corners; welded construction and details are utilized; traditional leather luggage is refreshed in color and hardware. A study in shape was the focus of footwear, specifically the outsoles. Textured rubber overlays and skewed, angular forms create new propositions of the shoe, sneaker, and boot silhouettes. Vulcanized construction is a featured technique whose imperfections reinforce a natural, human touch.
