MISSONI REFERENCES NYC IN THE EARLY ‘80S FOR NEWEST COLLECTION

by Stephen Garner

missoniFor fall/winter 2018, high-end Italian fashion house Missoni took inspiration from the cultural energy of New York City in the early ‘80s. A collection of fragmented patterns, textures, and color come together to reveal a rich and graphic picture from which this season’s eclectic narrative is born.

Dark, vibrant colors combine throughout the collection, from electric green, orange, bronze, navy, camel, red, and cerulean, which pop through the shades of black and slate grey.

Silhouettes were played with by alternating volumes, lengths, and proportions to form softly-tailored looks that are relaxed but defined. Knits have been brushed, felted or needle-punched to fashion soft, fleecy garments to ensure warmth and comfort.

missoniStriped blazers in Missoni’s exclusive loom- knit fabric are either double breasted with notch lapels or single-breasted with shawl collars. High-waisted trousers that exhibit slender, elongated silhouettes with a slight flare towards the ankle are fashioned in matching the striped loom-knit fabric or a rich, lush velvet in deeply intense colors. Fluid lace-knit workwear and grandad shirts are layered under gilets, cardigans and mock polo necks in brushed mohair featuring abstract, animalesque jacquard patterns—created from an intricate use of space-dyed yarns or a patchwork of stitches and 45 different colors.

Striped cashmere-silk gilets, crewnecks, polo necks and form-fitting layering pieces become staples throughout the collection. Plush outerwear pieces include: a slim-fitting car coat in Nappa leather that has been bonded with a micro-check loom-knit fabric and features exposed seams; a reversible shearling pullover with a side zip and jacquard-tape seams; a double-breasted coat made in a macro-check camel-and cashmere loom-knit fabric with a silk floral lining; an oversized military-inspired overcoat in a patchwork fabric of chunky Shetland wool and a belted parka in a macro-check loom-knit fabric.

Artisanal hand-crocheted scarves are narrow and long. Oversized knitted caps and berets in chunky two-ply cashmere space-dyes are voluminous with a slight Rastafarian influence. Utility ankle boots and loafers are constructed in contrasting leather and lizard skin with thick military soles. The embellishments of a collection that encapsulates the Missoni man, a man whose style is a reflection of his own personality.

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