PITTI UOMO: A FEMALE DESIGNER’S PERSPECTIVE

by Ruth Graves



Ruth Graves is a New York-based neckwear and accessories designer who has been creating beautiful prints and patterns with the top mills in Como Italy (where she once worked) for many years. In addition to her signature designs, she also creates digitally printed scarfs and shawls that stores can customize from photographs. She is known for this customization and for her elevated taste level.

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Key trends at this year’s Pitti Uomo included lots of ultra-luxury fabrics in soothing neutral shades. The look is sophisticated, clean, and classic, just right for the coming fall ’24 season to counter the effects of global conflict and nasty politics here in the States.  

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Bold statement outerwear was everywhere, accessorized with beautifully printed scarfs and a variety of hats from fedora and cowboy styles to knit and baseball caps. Interestingly, Italian brands are clearly recognizing the impact of Generation Z, the ones buying Cucinelli, Zegna, and Loro Piana, and wearing these upscale brands with confidence and nonchalance. (How they’re affording it, however, is anyone’s guess…) 

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The Pitti peacocks never disappoint. 

Dress shoes are selling but don’t underestimate the staying power of sneakers!
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A final note from an accessories perspective (not to be self-serving): I saw more beautiful classic neckties on men here than I have in several seasons. And they looked terrific! While I love knit turtlenecks and the ubiquitous unstructured sport coats, there’s nothing like a guy dressed up in an elegant suit and tie. And yes, I commend the Italians for promoting DB models: it’s about time!  

What’s a trip to Florence without a visit to Tuscany’s wine country?