SOUTHERN CLOTHING MARKET: FEELING THE LOVE…

Southern hospitality was alive and well at the Fall 2024 Southern Clothing Market in Charlotte (sponsored by the Men’s Apparel Club of the Carolinas, now in its 84th year).

While it can’t boast the 1,900 attendees that flocked to Chicago the prior week for what has clearly become the national menswear market, Charlotte attracts some of the nicest, smartest retailers I’ve met in a long time, most of whom were very busy placing orders. Not to mention, free breakfasts, lunches, and fun cocktail hours throughout the show make it easy for retailers and manufacturers to focus on business.

Larry Holland (above) is still proudly running the show, sharp as ever. Aside from his passion for drag racing (he was inducted into the East Coast Drag Racing Hall of Fame in 2007), he’s also a talented writer, for many years traveling the South to interview retailers for a publication called Rags to Riches. He loves his job as Southern Clothing Market’s Executive Director, working with Kay Matthews, Jim Sweeney, and the Board of Directors to keep things running smoothly.

Among the many great finds I discovered at this very warm and friendly show:
Sharp Lad, shown by Bruce and Shelly Wender (above), is one of those collections that looks more expensive than its ticket price. The attention to detail, even on the inside of garments, the dyed-to-match shell buttons, the suede elbow patches on quarter zips, the double-zip herringbone vests with the entire zipper in suede, the three-piece placket on polos, the unique colors, the careful distribution allowing generous markup, Bruce puts tremendous thought into these garments, and it shows!

Todd Hayes and Jim Twining (above) showed very cool shirt and outerwear collections from Madison Creek Outfitters. I loved the lightweight ranch jacket (side pockets have magnetic snaps), a hand-burnished waxed goat suede with zip-out bib, and a stylish water-resistant nylon at $195 retail. Although I came to shop men’s, I ended up trying on all the fabulous women’s styles. I recommend that men’s stores bring in a small assortment of these beautiful coats for the wives and girlfriends.

As more retailers move into made-to-measure, Stantt has been gaining momentum. “We see our made-to-measure as the gateway drug to custom,” says John Minahan. “Once a guy gets hooked on clothes that actually fit, there’s no going back.” Another advantage of MTM, says Minahan, is cash flow. “We don’t want to be part of anyone’s markdown problem,” he confirms. “Retailers need to have money before they spend money…”

Now 10 years old, Stantt’s delivery is two weeks for shirts, 2.5 for clothing. They also created a handbook for retailers that details how to fix any measuring mistakes that might occur. MTM shirts run $159-$279, sport coats $299-$799.

Harmony has always been a terrific opening-price tailored garment, based on the long-term relationship the company has had with its factory in China. Since Covid, however, Harmony has upgraded to fabrics from a few luxury mills in Italy, elevating the brand to a whole new level.

(At top, L to R: Retailers Jason and Lori Brown from Ronnie’s in Cowarts, AL; Harmony’s Jack Schniper and Roy Ruggiero.)

Says company president Richard Seitchik, “Better stores are picking it up, some under their own label, which we’re happy to accommodate. These goods are at a higher level because of the luxury fabrics, the styling, the quality make and the margins they afford retailers.”

Harmony is now in its 126th year, arguably the oldest company under the same ownership in the tailored clothing market.

I doubt anyone knows more about khakis than Bill Thomas (above), founder of Bill’s Khakis, formerly with Duckhead, and now launching PennBilt, a well-edited collection of cool military-inspired twill trousers that he says is “a faithful evolution of the original.” Maintaining that “DNA from the past is where the market is today,” Thomas offers just a few perfect models, the first an 8.5-ounce military twill (without stretch) at a $225 retail. Made in California, it’s a relaxed boot cut with a fuller fit. Another American model is one-inch trimmer through the leg in a compact, stretch cotton fabric.

The #1 style is called The Plainsman, made in Peru, $175 retail in a 7.5 ounce fabric with a trimmer fit. It’s 96% pima cotton and 4% stretch in a dobby twill weave, available in four colors and two inseams. To complete the collection, there’s the Club short, a 6.2 ounce 96/4 pima cotton blend, available in eight colors, $135 retail.

In stock year-round, these are perfect pants (and shorts) for fashion purists. Caps and goatskin work gloves are the perfect accessories.