by Stephen Garner

This season, Todd Snyder gave prep style a rebellious rethink, fusing his respect for the iconic school uniform and mixing it with an irreverent New York sensibility. Inspired by the pre-Savile Row set and the East End of London’s youth, Snyder took the starch out of posh signatures, refreshing an outdated dress code with a devilish rock and roll flair. From impeccable tailoring in oversized proportions to traditional bespoke fabrics updated in bright, bold hues, the collection is all about wearing your idiosyncrasies on your sleeve and making the classics your very own.

Opposites collide in rakishly deconstructed silhouettes, juxtaposing work and play, high and low, vintage and now. Familiar shapes – Crombie coats, toggled duffle outerwear, school boy sweaters – evoke the ‘60s and ‘70s, but with sharp features and a decidedly modern fit. Traditional tailoring slacks off just a touch in insouciant cropped hems, foulard and paisley haberdashery shirts that skew more thrift store than university library. Punk plaid flannel – the rebel uniform from the London’s East End – is a bad influence on impeccable slim fit trousers, in the best possible way.

Schoolboy sweaters get a smart upgrade in refined textures: shaggy Shetland sweaters from Harley of Scotland. Stepped up tweed and corduroy Sack Suits in pink and teal, and printed cord shirting present an update to the classic professor’s uniform. Cozy sherpa and velour nod to old school nostalgia, while kaleidoscopic color block sportswear roams the campus in forward-thinking ways. A posh autumn palette – camel, oxblood, grey – pops with cheeky hits of pink, aqua, jade, chartreuse, and varsity hues from kelly green to collegiate gold.

East End meets Far East in our hotly anticipated first collaboration with Descente, Osaka-based makers of luxe technical gear rooted in 83 years of craftsmanship and innovation. Fusing Snyder’s passion for tailoring and his love of tweed/sartorial references, the designs incorporate Descente’s proprietary Allterrain and Synchknit technology in smartly tailored sportswear designed for modern momentum.

Photos by Maria Valentino