FROM OUR FEBRUARY ISSUE: CHRIS BLOWERS, GREINER’S, FLORIDA–THE POWER OF MENTORS

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Over the next few days, we’ll be sharing profiles from our Tailored Clothing Section about Top Clothing Merchants, “Still Selling Suits!” With hybrid workplaces the norm and corporate dress codes an anachronism, how are some merchants still selling so many suits and sport coats? Here, they share some secrets.

MR: Your background?

Chris Blowers: I worked at a high-end country club pro shop through high school. I certainly enjoyed the golf, but also loved helping the members choose new golf apparel. I went to college at Florida State University in Tallahassee. One day, I walked into a store called Nic’s Toggery and started talking with store owner Victor Gavalas. I worked for the Gavalas family for four years of college and was hooked. By my senior year, I knew I wanted to own my own store.

Your vision for tailored clothing?

Our tailored clothing business has gone from 80 percent suits/20 percent sport coats to 80 percent sport coats/20 percent suits. We’ve always preferred a “softer” shouldered look, so it was easy to introduce unconstructed clothing. Because we’re mostly in Florida (Tampa, Sarasota, plus a custom design studio in Beverly Hills), fabric weight is important. The wool/silk/linen blends from Loro Piana and Gladson have given us lots to choose from. Because of our focus on MTM, our clients seem to be getting younger. Between weddings and a desire to wear something unique, young guys push us every day to think modern.

Your thoughts on recent price increases?

With inflation being what it is, our clients expect higher price points. I haven’t heard complaints, but I try to show good, better, best in each category, so there are options. Although our dollar volume is higher in made-to-measure, our “off-the-rack” clothing sales have greatly increased as more guys purchase sport coats vs. suits. We’re looking more seriously at jersey fabrics for sport coats and interesting shirt jacket styles.

The biggest challenge you now face?

Convincing people they NEED a new suit or sport coat when tailored clothing is no longer required. I’ve always said, “If a guy is poorly dressed in a suit, he likely looks even worse in casual clothing.” A jacket can hide lots of shortcomings. Our biggest competition these days is both the big stores (Nordstroms, Neiman’s, etc.) and the brands themselves. Our competitive edge is private label.

Who have been your mentors, and what have you learned from them?

George Schumacher, the designer of Samuelsohn in the ’90s, taught me how to measure and to understand what customers expect from an industry professional. I spent several hours with industry giants Harry Rosen and Murray Pearlstein (Louis Boston) early in my career: their passion was contagious! One of my closest industry friends is Craig DeLongy (John Craig). Craig has always been open to sharing information. He has great vision and is willing to be a pioneer vs. a follower. I should have been a better student of Victor Gavalas (Nic’s Toggery). Victor can turn his inventory better than anyone I know. Whenever I travel, I always visit stores: Kent Gushner (Boyd’s), John Braeger (Gary’s), Robby and Greg Miller (Miller Bros.), John Carroll (Carroll Custom), and so many others have inspired me. Designer Bob Jensen (Robert Talbott) was very generous with advice early in my career. Ken Giddon (Rothman’s) is one of the smartest guys I know.

Your favorite and least favorite parts of your job?

I love looking at lines but hate writing the orders. So many sales reps have become friends over the years: it’s hard to “pass” or “lighten an order” with friends. I love pioneering a line but hate when the brand gets so large that you’re competing against not just other stores but also the brand’s corporate stores and websites. But I love searching for the next great line! I love hiring talented sellers who work hard to make your stores great. I hate having to fire people who are there for the paycheck, not to learn and grow.

In light of our tenuous economy and an election, will you bring in less inventory upfront?

Yes. Turning inventory is how we make money vs. just overall volume. During election years, our clients are more distracted. Sadly, I’ve had to learn to keep my mouth shut on political opinions lately. I’ve become Switzerland thanks to good advice from Glen Taylor at Taylor Richards: you want to win the sale, not the argument.