FROM OUR FEBRUARY ISSUE: LEGACY ON DISPLAY

The entire MR team is proud to present our February 2024 issue. You haven’t gotten your copy yet? Feel free to page through a digital copy at  Issuu, and we’ll continue to post individual stories here on  MR-mag.com. If you haven’t been getting MR in print, be sure that you are on our mailing list for future issues by completing  this form.

Since the Chicago Collective starts this weekend (can you believe it?), we’re posting our Chicago-centric content from this issue first over the next few days. 

Chicago Deep Dive

With its centralized location and nearly 450 exhibitors packed onto one (rather large) floor, the Chicago Collective has been a favorite for almost 40 years, renowned for its convivial atmosphere as much as for serious order-writing. Here’s our quick primer on the event, trend guidance for the autumn/winter 2024/25 season, and some fun facts. (Don’t miss our end page, written by neckwear designer and Chicagoan Lee Allison, about Chi-town’s fashion history.)

While the Chicago Collective has worked hard to earn its spot as the premiere menswear show in North America (with a waitlist that would make any trade show producer envious), its beginnings were humble.

“Years ago, I would lose 25-35% of the show each season, and now our turnover is almost zero, which is unheard of in the trade show industry—I’m very proud of that,” says Bruce Schedler, head of the show and our MR 2023 People’s Choice winner.

Chicago Collective has been at the Merchandise Mart since the mid-1980s, and is now positively bursting at its bespoke tailored seams, featuring 435 exhibitors over four days (Feb 3-6). Eight vendors will debut at the February show (and we’ve all heard about that lengthy waiting list).

New this year, an extra half day to the start of the show.

“We think buyers will have more time to maximize their assortments and I hope they’ll check out brands they didn’t have time to consider before,” he says.

After all, Schedler approximates about 2,000 retailers, way up from pre-Covid numbers.

Of course, we can’t forget all of the fun events and activations that round out the show.

You won’t be able to miss the enormous Colmar Snowman greeting you in front of the mart.  The brand’s distributor, Throat Threads, will also host the opening night party at Marshall’s Landing in the Mart. There’s another highly anticipated special event—to be announced— planned for Sunday.

The Collective’s VP of sales Danielle Owen has created a new exhibitor area next to Polo Ralph Lauren featuring brands that will also support the new Chicago Collective’s Women’s show in March [see sidebar], plus plenty of brand-sponsored happy hours and coffee breaks. MR’s editor-in-chief, Karen Alberg, will also be moderating a panel on the luxury market for Gladson New York.

A Little Help From My Friends

You may not know it from the packed Mart floors and celebratory events, but there were years when the livelihood of the show was in question.

“Years ago, we were barely holding on, so I had rep meetings before each show, and it felt like I was their sales manager asking them to get out there with me and sell this thing, and they did!” recalls Schedler. “We supported each other in a huge way; the reps simply refused to let the show go under.”

Those reps and sales managers are too numerous to name but included former MR publisher Stu Nifoussi, Bob Garey, Richard Binder, Fred Derring, Anthony and Dana, the guys at the Puritan Shop, Lisa Slesinger, Ronnie Hanna, Gary Halpern, Jeff Simon, Scott Cornell, Keith Kinkade, and Craig De Longy.

Bruce also credits the success of the show to the brands that remained loyal, from the smaller, less attended shows through today’s standing-room-only crowds.

“Barbour is like a partner to us, Peerless, Bugatchi, Jack Victor, 7 Diamonds, Remo Tulliani, Tommy Bahama, PYA, Dion, 34 Heritage, Coppley, Stenstrom’s, Left Coast-T, Ballin, Johnston & Murphy, Rian, and Tom at Tri-Luxe, Peter Millar, David Donahue, Robert Graham, Black Dog 8, Brax and, many others played big roles early on in our success.”

Of course, there are many more people who have been integral to the show’s success.

“See the problem with listing people? Now I will get calls from all those I didn’t mention,” he jokes.

International Flair

Schedler knew the times were changing for the better when he drew interest from some of the International fashion stalwarts.

“We worked hard just to be the underdog show, the ‘little brother’ to NYC, and we enjoyed that position actually. We were proud to be a solid number two to the world’s undisputed fashion capital,” explains Schedler. “I mean, how could we possibly beat them? We started getting calls from elite brands and retailers, and then the Italian Trade Agency (ITA) checked the show out and joined us. We sensed that a major shift was happening.”

“Those international partnerships with organizations like the ITA and the United Kingdom Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) have been incredible, from hosting happy hours to a great Monday evening social event and a fun and well-attended networking event on the show floor.”

But beyond the fun, “we value these partnerships, and they certainly add cachet to the show,” says Schedler, “Italian passion is real, we love working with them, and we find them to be very creative and committed to their mission of exposing great Italian brands, craftsmanship, and artistry to the North American retailers attending our show.”

The Brits don’t disappoint either, with Paul Alger and the UKFT supporting British brands. Who doesn’t love a gin and tonic happy hour, one of the events it is hosting this year?

“I love English anything,” says Schedler, “so having their affiliation is very special. Our buyer base has embraced these groups, and we now have many great brands contacting us from throughout the country. It’s very special to have their support.”

Schedler is always working with the Merchandise Mart on ways to expand the trade show floor, and he hopes to accommodate many more brands— including those from Italy and the UK—in the future.

Community At The Core

Although the show has gotten bigger, its heart and soul remain intimate and congenial. Schedler, who has been in the position of ‘will this fail or succeed’ before, knows that to maintain the show’s position, it has to be extremely efficient, all while maintaining a sense of community and purpose. Buyers have so many more choices and opportunities today, and everyone is looking for a simple yet enjoyable way to go to market.

“ Buyers are our lifeblood, and they need to feel they are as important to us and our exhibitors, as their own customers are to them.”

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Femme Forward

It’s no surprise that requests for a Chicago Collective Women’s Edition came in response to the success of the men’s show. In March 2023, the team launched its first women’s event, catering to the Midwest region (predominantly specialty store boutiques from the surrounding 11 states), with the goal of becoming a national event. Women’s Edition will also run twice a year. The event will make its 2024 debut from March 3-5 on the 7th floor of The Mart and feature around 250 exhibitors, with a second planned for October.

On the apparel side, keep a lookout for big brands like Kerri Rosenthal, Vince, AG Jeans, Barbour, For Love and Lemons, Zadig & Voltaire, Slvrlake, Varley, Suncoo Paris, Simkhai, James Perse, and Frances Valentine. Accessories and footwear are a growing area of the show, with brands like Jenny Bird, Linda Richards, ROAM, and Cozy Earth exhibiting this March, with the hope that footwear will become a focal point in the future.

Expect the vibrant community feel that Bruce Schedler, Monique Kielar, Danielle Owen, and the entire Chicago team work so hard to achieve with the men’s show. There’s an opening night party for buyers and exhibitors to connect, plus coffee, breakfast, lunch, and beloved happy hours.

You’ll see quite a few familiar faces from the men’s show with over 50 brands crossing-over to the women’s show including: 7Diamonds, 7 for All Mankind, Bridge & Burn, Outerknown, DL1961, Vineyard Vines, Shoe the Bear, Woden, Pendleton, American Needle, Cozy Earth, Barbour, AG Jeans, Jungmaven, Hangers Direct, The Packaging Source, Current/Elliott, People of Leisure, Diadora Heritage, Cuts, Edwin USA, Pig and Hen, Rains, Rhone Apparel, Jsquared Showroom, Ranger Station, Hudson Jeans, Joe’s Jeans, Paige, Voile Blanche, Flower Mountain, Candice Cooper, W6YZ, James Perse, Stance, Madeworn, Vince, Paraboot The Normal Brand, Bread & Boxers, Tommy Bahama, Road to Nowhere, Long Wharf Supply Co., Shwood Eyewear, Umber & Ochre, Retro Brand, Simkhai, deCrease, Frame, Autumn Cashmere, Cotton by Autumn Cashmere, Naadam, M5 Showroom, Faherty Brand, SOL Angeles, Rails, Alashan Cashmere, American Vintage, Flag & Anthem, Lines of Denmark, Clinch Collections, Liverpool, Holebrook of Sweden, Mavi, Mododoc, Geox, Harden, MooRER, Boglioli, Colombo, Gimo’s, Dune, Teleria Zed, and Calo.