MILAN MEN’S FASHION WEEK AW/24: WOOLRICH BLACK LABEL

by Michael Macko


MR is pleased to present our recap of Milan Men’s Fashion Week for Autumn/Winter 2024/25. We could not cover all of the 60+ collections showing, so we selected the designers and brands we thought most relevant to you, our readers, if there is someone we missed who you would like to see, please leave a comment below and we will try to include them. 

Woolrich Black Label By Todd Snyder

While many in the fashion world were anxiously awaiting to see the first menswear collection designed solely by Sabato De Sarno, the new Creative Director at Gucci, many of us were equally awaiting the first collection of Todd Snyder for Woolrich and he did not disappoint.

Woolrich, the original American outdoor brand, launched the new Black Label Collection as a way to bring together Woolrich’s rich heritage as a storied American brand with the contemporary and timeless aesthetic of America’s leading menswear designer, it was presented at the Woolrich Showroom in Milan on Saturday, January 13th, during Milan Men’s Fashion Week.

The Black Label Collection consists of two different lines – Heritage and Technical.

Heritage is a luxurious take on iconic styles from Woolrich’s 190-year history, including the rugged wool Buffalo Check Shirt updated in cashmere and a refresh of the Woolrich Arctic Parka, the style once worn by Admiral Richard E. Byrd, the leader of the first American scientific missions to the Antarctic. Other Heritage standouts for Fall 2024 include styles that were developed as hard-working field clothing but reinvented for the modern-day man. These looks include a military trench, quilted down hood, a fisherman’s sweater, and also plaids, long a part of Woolrich’s DNA, which are taken in a new direction as cashmere shirt jackets, along with matching shirts and ties. And if you are showing shorts in winter you of course need base layers also executed in Italian cashmere. “It felt very fresh to start with rugged outdoor styles and then refresh them in more modern silhouettes and luxurious fabrics,” says Snyder.

Technical marries high-performance materials with Snyder’s signature menswear detailing. The collection is designed to meet the necessary technical standards of serious outdoorsmen while being cool enough for city men, whose nearest brush with nature is walking the dog in Central Park. The Technical aesthetic is defined by pieces like the Birch Parka, which has a drip-dyed nylon exterior from the legendary Olmetex mill that looks like an abstract painting of a birch forest, quilted onto a high pile sherpa interior as well as the ripstop parachute pant, based on a vintage military style, but and finished in a luxe Italian nylon, also included are several Alpine Boots, which come in leather and suede and are functional yet luxurious with shearling lining. “The more I’ve worked on the Technical line, the more I’ve been excited about designing clothing that can handle the demands of the great outdoors and be the statement pieces in a city wardrobe,” says Todd.

The Black Label Collection will be available for purchase in the fall of 2024 at Woolrich stores globally and Todd Snyder stores in the United States.

Don’t miss all of our Milan coverage, including:
Brunello Cucinelli
Canali
Corneliani
Isaia
Zegna