MILAN MEN’S FASHION WEEK AW/24: ZEGNA
MR is pleased to present our recap of Milan Men’s Fashion Week for Autumn/Winter 2024/25. We could not cover all of the 60+ collections showing, so we selected the designers and brands we thought most relevant to you, our readers, if there is someone we missed who you would like to see, please leave a comment below and we will try to include them.
Zegna
Anyone familiar with Zegna, who I assume is everyone reading this article, is familiar with Oasi Zegna, a natural territory that stretches 100 kilometers in northern Italy, 30 times the size of Central Park. It was started by the founder and namesake of the house, Ermenegildo Zegna when he planted the first tree in 1910 and now this unique model of social and environmental consciousness is the spiritual home and ethos of the revered Italian house.
This season we also learned that Oasi Zegna, is also an experimental laboratory and we got a peek inside the Oasi of Cashmere. Set up in the former Milan fairgrounds, guests were seated around a giant pile of raw cashmere which slowly grew larger as rust-colored fragments of the fiber floated down during the show. Alessandro Sartori, Zegna Artistic Director, said of the show “As both a physical place and a mindset, Oasi Zegna, the center of our world, is a veritable lab: a place in which we can tirelessly explore new fabrications, develop new forms, devise forward-looking clothing solutions suited for the now.” The runway show was presented with the sound of blowing winds accompanying a soundtrack, composed exclusively for Zegna by British electronic musician James Blake, who worked together with Sartori to create music with a symbiotic flow of the collection and the creativity of the environment.
In the Oasi lab this season a reshaping of matter and a re-mattering of shapes evolved as well, with the brand undergoing a deep structural rethinking that, by grouping elements into four categories does away with needless distinctions while expanding the possibilities of use for each item. Top, bottoms, underpinnings, and accessories are the four working categories of the house. This allows the collection to become an open system of elements that can be layered and combined in many ways, allowing the personal style of the individual wearer to come through.
Key items from Zegna for AW/24 include coats with volume, sonically welded duvets, blousons, vests, double-collared blazers, collarless anoraks, generous trousers, knitted tops, and bottoms, over-shirts and boxy jackets with pockets, ribbed and padded jumpers. long ribbed gloves, bridge-less glasses, round-toed boots with tonal rubber soles, soft satchels, and neatly designed handbags.
Layering is both a solution and an attitude, highlighted by the range of colors, which are not one-dimensional, but a composite of hues, these include white, butter yellow, asphalt gray granite, matte black, foliage brown, and ink blue, and pops of light pink.
Don’t miss all of our Milan coverage, including:
Brunello Cucinelli
Canali
Corneliani
Isaia
Woolrich Black Label
Top photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com
