I know. It’s true. In this age of instant gratification, where we find out everything immediately through Facebook or Instagram, this final Pitti post, concerning Day Four of the fair which happened a full eleven days ago, should probably have been posted last week at the latest. But editing the bajillion pictures I took at Pitti is no quick feat, coupled with the writing and the proofing, not to mention the looming deadlines for our August issue and the fast-approaching New York Fashion Week: Men’s. Excuses, excuses, but there it is, and here we are. If eleven days past is old news, then alas. But try to think of this more as a recap, or as it says in the title, a postcard: the old-fashioned kind, or “snail-mail” if you’re feeling mean?
And so we go back: back to just over a week ago, to Florence and one of the biggest events in menswear, Pitti Uomo. With events stacked back to back like dominoes, finding time to actually walk the show (let alone write about it!), which is kind of the point, was a little tricky, but on the fourth and final day, we got properly stuck in. With so many sections, the task is a little daunting in itself, but with many people already on their way to Milan, the next stop on menswear’s Grand Tour, the show traffic was sufficiently slowed to allow for much easier meandering. So many spectacular booths, you would need the space of a short novel to cover everything. I’ve picked a few of my personal highlights to give a quick glimpse, but if you haven’t been, you will really have to go and see for yourself. It’s essential.
For many the undisputed star of the show, and honoree at the upcoming MR Awards in July, Brunello Cucinelli showed a SS16 collection that injected a somewhat unexpected infusion of color: pale green, orange, blue, red and yellow blended effortlessly with the palette of luxurious neutrals that Cucinelli does so well. The season’s presentation was notably void of any either explicitly dressy or casual looks. The combining of sportswear and casual with tailored and dressy is now, for Cucinelli, absolute.
The brand that really brought the A-game to men’s soft coats showcased their first foray into full lifestyle, with their L.B.M. 1911 label. With their first store opening last week, Lubiam is in an exciting place right now, and their new offerings, including excellent leather goods and outerwear, are every bit as exciting as the soft coats that they are known for.
When Samantha Glazer from the David Glazer showroom first sent me a selection of Roda pocket squares, I was excited. The elegant prints on luxurious fabrics were not like any I had seen. When I spotted the Roda booth at Pitti, I expected to see more of the same, and would have been happy to do just that, but I was pleasantly surprised to find a full line of apparel in the same patterns and fabrics as the pocket squares that got my attention initially. T-shirts with pocket squares welded to the front, sold alongside the same pocket square, were one of my favorite finds of the fair.
Rebranding what was once known as Ben Minkoff, Uri, literally the brother line to sister Rebecca Minkoff’s accessory brand, was on hand to walk me through a beautifully constructed collection of shoes, bags and other leather goods.
Some of the best shoes on the show floor, Noah Waxman’s signature sandals are unique, among some of the most beautiful monk straps and sneakers.
D by D*Syoukel
I was stopped in my tracks passing this booth. The fabric textures and silhouettes really impressed me, and I started taking some photos until I got shouted at. Literally shouted at, and shoo’d out of the booth like a bandit. They must have thought I was trying to steal their secrets. I didn’t stick around to explain: too startled.
Title of Work
You could probably call me biased on this one, because I love the guys behind Title of Work, but in fact the product speaks for itself. The printed scarves are works of art, the neckwear is innovative and completely unique, and the jewelry, like the silver link chain with one rose gold link is some of the best men’s jewelry out there.
Wooster + Lardini
Every time I passed the booth, it was busy with buyers listening to Mr. Wooster wax lyrical. I took a couple shots and checked out the product. I didn’t want to interrupt.