NYFWM HIGHLIGHTS: EIDOS
EIDOS
Three years young, this, the cooler younger brother of luxury Italian brand Isaia, is all those things and more. Creative director Antonio Ciongoli is inspired, and delivers consistent collections that perfectly merge that ‘Made in Italy’ tradition with contemporary design.
Using some of the world’s finest fabrics, Ciongoli presented a sportswear collection that was effortlessly elegant. A green herringbone overcoat was so soft and belted so casually it came across almost like a dressing gown. Military influences were present, but subtle, in outerwear and pants, and the tailored clothing, a keystone of Neapolitan menswear, was as expert as you’d expect, with extra-wide lapels and worn with a spread collar and a traditionally wide tie.
“The fall collection was called In Esilio, and was based on the work, both written and painted, of Carlo Levi,” explains Ciongoli. “Levi was a northern Italian doctor, painter and outspoken anti-fascist that was exiled by Mussolini from Turin to Basilicata in 1935. His painting and memoir, Christ Stopped at Eboli, vividly depicts the desolate region and its heartbreakingly resilient inhabitants. Hearty textiles like Italian military tweed, linen flannel and hand-dyed Indian Khadi cloth were cut in rugged silhouettes that reflected the needs of these people and the painter who was inspired by them.”
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