MILAN MEN’S FASHION WEEK AW/24: ISAIA

MR is pleased to present our recap of Milan Men’s Fashion Week for Autumn/Winter 2024/25. We could not cover all of the 60+ collections showing, so we selected the designers and brands we thought most relevant to you, our readers, if there is someone we missed who you would like to see, please leave a comment below and we will try to include them. 

Isaia

For AW/24 ISAIA returned to Milan Fashion Week where it celebrated Naples in the 1980s and iconic Italian actor Massimo Troisi, a multifaceted Neapolitan actor and director, well-known for his film “Troisi is Dead, Long Live Troisi”. Troisi was a cultural icon during this era and serves as the primary source of inspiration for the collection, which also honors the “New Napoli” cultural movement, which seeks to revitalize the creative art scene of the city.

“Massimo Troisi, a leading figure who represented Napoli in the late 1970s and 1980s, endorsed the concept of ongoing development as essential for the city’s survival”, states Gianluca Isaia, CEO of the brand. “Nevertheless, Troisi firmly believed that progress should be aligned with one’s cultural identity”.
The brand continues to uphold its reputation as both grounded in tradition and forward-thinking in its designs, consistently emphasizing the combination of vibrant colors, rich textures, and bold patterns. The collection features distinct manufacturing methods that result in unexpected reinterpretations of classic styles, extending the brand’s renowned reputation beyond its sartorial expertise.

From the meticulous luxury Casentino treatments, involving labor-intensive hand pilling, to the fully canvassed, hand-stitched suede trench coats and smoking jackets, “Isaia emphasizes constructions that exude individuality and intellectual sophistication,” states Creative Director Michael Handis. “This approach symbolizes the brand’s commitment to fusing the past and present to shape the future.”

“This collection is an homage to Napoli,” says Gianluca Isaia. “In order to capture its essence, we began by focusing on color as the initial step, even before considering fabrications. Color can evoke certain emotions and dictate the possibilities of the design process.”

Amidst the vibrant setting of the Gattopardo, a former Milanese church transformed into a nightclub, the celebration of the 1980s continued after the runway presentation with a musical act by Enrico Frattasio and his brothers, known as Mixed by Erry—all prominent figures in the Neapolitan music scene of the decade—followed by a special performance by Gianluigi Lembo and his band Anema e Core.

Don’t miss all of our Milan coverage, including:
Brunello Cucinelli
Canali
Corneliani
Woolrich Black Label
Zegna